Last Friday I was off of work for a national holiday in which Chinese people will think of their ancestors and possibly visit their tombs. As I havent seen family in a few months, I found it quite fitting that I had plans to shoot up to Beijing on a train and meet my Aunt Beth and Bill (B+B). This was my second trip to Beijing in less than a month, the first was with some friends from here in Qingdao who were playing a couple shows in the very underground but burgeoning rock (yao gun 摇滚) scene of Beijing. When I arrived in the Middle Kingdom, it was around 2:00 in the afternoon. Lots of cherry trees were blossoming about town and I was met at the train stop by a ritzy attendant from the Raffles Hotel. Checked into the hotel and found a room that was fit for Nixon (think he actually stayed here in 72 when China began "opening up"). Could see Tiananmen Square from my window. Since B+B werent arriving for sometime I decided to walk around, grab a Big-Mac and get ripped off by a very cordial young-girl and man who posed as her uncle. They walked with me and we just happened to pass a tea store where they invited me to share some tea with them. The teahouse was found in a strip of hutongs and basically the prices were ridiculous. I still payed an embarrasing price, because I was duped in to thinking the folks were sincere at first and by the end I realized I was a fool for not being on my toes, but it was a good preparation for the rest of my stay in a city of 10 million, where everyone is looking to capitalize on the Olympic fervor.
So got a ring from Bill, walked back to the hotel and met up with B+B in their Song Dynasty Suite. Pretty rocking room! After talking for a bit we took a walk to see Tiananmen and the new Opera/Theatre House. Beth had her Gen-X bound feet ( and she definitely snagged some looks. Random folks were wanting their picture taken with her in front of Mao. We had dinner in the hotel's French restaurant accompanied with Krug bubbly, which became an everynight affair. The only wine I tasted in China was wretched so it was nice to savor the flavor of some grapes. Take that back three penis wine, is also pretty rocking. Its the traditional fermented rice liquor in China, baijiu, but they throw in a couple dog penises to the mix.
After dinner I had plans to check out some yao gun, but instead came across a posting for DJ Tiesto spinning that night. So scurriedd off to Gt. Banana and watched this world famous DJ pump some bass for a few hours. Really neat experience, little crowded, but my first techno/house/trance (whatever the hell you want to call it) show and enjoyed moving with the crowd of at least 2,000. Even though the ratio at these types of events lean a little more to the expat side, its still great to see Chinese people enjoying the rapturous releases of music. Returning to the hotel after 2:00 I was offered a few me-sawgees, but kindly refused.
Saturday the 5th, we didnt have anything on the itinerary organized by Imperial Tours, however, B+B still felt up to a walk even with the jetlagging and we headed East along ___. Tried to make it out to the new CCTV building but turned back to have lunch at the hotel. After lunch we decided to walk the full perimeter of the Forbidden City. Nice walk but by then Beth had several blisters and before dinner at The Peninsula, we sought out some designer sneakers, but with a price of 3,000 rmb/$500, we had to wait another day. Dinner was again deelish, but my stomach actually reacted unkindly to the Western food. After dinner, I again had plans to catch some yao gun. Guaili a band that had played in Qingdao only a couple weeks earlier, was playing at 2 Kolegas, a venue the Qingdao Dama Llama possee wrecked when playing with Gala Ziyo and Playmaker a few weeks earlier. The bar resembles a dank basement where many rock bands would have commenced in the U.S. Upon arrival a band with a female bassist was playing short Strokesesque tunes, need to get the name. Up next was Guaili, who have the indie undertones with a chain-smoking rail-thin female lead singer that hits a lot of notes, two guitarists a bassist and a tattoed drummer. I enjoyed this showing much more than in the large Creative 100 building in Qingdao, buch more intimate and approapriate reverb. The babe can wail. Much enjoyable and I am sure they could find a following on the college circuit back home. Next was a pleasant surprise. I was sitting on a couch in the back of the venue , resting my legs when a new band drew a large crowd to the floor. Couldnt see the band, but honestly the main reason I stood up was to check out who was belting out the beats with the sticks. It was a another female. Had to move up for the rest of this show, and have to figure out their name. Would love to check them out again. Didnt stay for the last band after watching their overempthatic expat bassist in the first jam. Again, really great to catch such a new movement that most of China lacks.
Sunday, we started off in the Temple of Heaven with our guides, Laura (Chinese) and Andy (Brit expat from England) from Imperial Tours. Some good people watching, crowds of thirty playing harmonicas, cymbals, drums, accordions etc. singing and dancing, also the most talented jianzi players I have seen yet. Jianzi resembles a badmitton ball or whatever, but they kick it around like a hacky-sack. Saw some west coast-style kicks behind the back and what not. Then we went to a nice cultural market. Found some Mao-era revolution posters, which I find quite interesting. Bought one about evil American invaders. Had lunch at a very empty but "shee-shee" restaurant carved out of an old hutong. After lunch we got a tour of some near extinct hutongs, by both foot and rick-shaw. Even visited a very popular calligrapher/painter in his 90's and watched him paint the evolution of the character for longevity (shou/夀）. Dinner was at the heady "Green Tea House."
Next day was spent with with an expert on the Great Wall.